In this episode, I’m joined by Samantha Blues, founder of Colour Science Investigation (CSI). Samantha shares how her course uses a crime-scene-style framework—Canvas, Residue, Investigation, Method, and Execution—to help stylists move from guessing to predicting their colour results.
A key theme is that many stylists are trained to focus on the finished look, not what’s happening inside the hair. Samantha says this often creates strong foilers and placement specialists, but leaves them unsure how to troubleshoot when things go wrong. She believes the industry—including colleges and apprenticeships—doesn’t teach “hair reading” thoroughly enough.
Samantha explains that great colour work starts with proper analysis: assessing the canvas, identifying residue, understanding underlying pigment, and knowing how colour molecules behave in the hair. She also stresses the importance of detailed consultations—setting realistic expectations, asking better questions, and being confident enough to say no when the hair isn’t ready or the goal isn’t achievable.
We also talk about toners, colour correction, and the pressure that comes from relying on formulas alone. Samantha warns that formulas are often copied without understanding the hair they were created for—so prediction will always beat shortcuts.
Finally, she outlines her six-week online course: it’s brand-neutral, self-paced, includes weekly Q&As, and is designed to build structure, confidence, and stronger client communication.
